Formaster Archery How To Remove Seized Nuts And Bolts

Good mechanical skills are dependent on a good attitude and the right approach. you have to recognize the importance of each component handle, no matter how insignificant it may seem. when seized formaster archery nuts, bolts, and screws, most home mechanics quickly become frustrated and start forcing the issue before they had really thought about the implications of the problem. that usually makes the problem worse, which naturally leads to a loss of temper, which generally destroys the fastener – be it a nut, screw or whatever – which in turn destroys jobs.

The first thing to do before removing any attachments to make sure you’ve got the correct tool. sounds simple enough, but many home mechanics can get it wrong time and time again. so do not even think about using, say, a whitworth formaster archery spanner on a metric nut, or vice versa. do not use any spanner in any nut or bolt that is not designed for it. although the spanner fits and works, it could also damage the fastener, thereby giving you problems the next time around. never use either the wrong size screwdriver. do not use the wrong socket, allen key or any other tool.

Formaster archery – How To Remove a Stuck Nut or Bolt

Only right is correct. everything else is wrong – even if you can get away with it nine times out of ten. but that tenth time is where it all goes pear-shaped, and suddenly eroded an important part, and perhaps injured yourself too. so check the fit of the tool. then check it again. given that now you’ve got the right tools, use gentle pressure to see if the fastener is going to give you trouble. common warning signs of impending problems graunched nuts, or damaged screw head or corrosion.

formaster archery_2230060

Also, nuts and bolts that are subjected to heavy torsional (twisting) forces tend to cause major problems (such formaster archery as wheel nuts). nuts and bolts and screws that have been subjected to repeated heating and cooling (exhaust clamp bolts, for example) are also likely to give you problems and you are prone to shearing. remember too that a bolt shears suddenly can lead to other damage to the bike. or yourself. if you suspect an imminent problem, get out of freeing oil. use wd40, gas plus, or whatever brand you think is the best (and the internet is full of heated argument promoting one brand over another).

Even ordinary diesel oil is a pretty good penetrant. ditto for the 3-in-1 oil. but like all oils, try and keep it off your skin. now liberally coat the offending fastener oil. if you can leave it overnight, so much the better. otherwise, leave as much time as possible before tackling the job – and that means not less than 10-15 minutes. time enough for a cuppa. then go back and apply some more freeing oil. next, check that there are not any lock washers in place, or any other mechanical device designed to stop the bolt or screw from coming loose.


Check that too without any burrs or other obstructions. if you’re happy now, it is time to try a little more power, to reach the right tool, which means a tight-fitting tool. remind yourself once again of the importance of each fastener. do not mentally dismiss any of them as minor obstacles to be overcome. every nut, bolt or screw can stop you from completing the work, and can cause you to lose your temper when it suddenly becomes unusable. so go carefully. if you do not “shock” the fastener, which may help.

You can use a center punch for screws (giving it a short, sharp, central whack with a hammer ballpein). for bolts, a sharp slap in the end often suffices (either before you apply force with a spanner, or while you are applying force). for peanuts, you can try to tap around the flat – but be careful not to damage or compress the thread. the idea is to jolt the metal, which has built up tension. if you can shake it while it’s covered in freeing oil, the oil will often find its way deeper into the offending threads and help release the tension.


But it needs time to work. so try and plan ahead and set to work freeing the oil in a week or two before you start restoration work. if formaster archery oil and carefully applied force does not do this, stop and try some heat. avoid naked flame. use a heat gun or even a hairdryer if that’s all you’ve got. watch the paintwork, and keep the heat away from petrol. consider removing the entire assembly so that you can work on it at a bench where you can be more comfortable – and where you will have a vice to hold it securely.

If heat does not do this, consider squirting the component liberally with freeing oil, then wrap the component in plastic film and freezing at night (where possible). remember; you must release the compressive forces on the thread. within reason, anything you can do to change the metal-to-metal interaction can only help. also, consider these suggestions before you attempt to deal with the fastener. 1. use a spanner metrinch. these have a four-point grip as opposed to a conventional two-point grip, and they are in the grip of “flat” a nut or bolt instead of the corners and thereby becomes tighter as you apply force.


If you do not have a set of them, now is the time to get some before you proceed. good tools will repay themselves time and time again. 2. if a screw head is damaged, you can use a needle file ?? to improve the slot? you can get only one chance at it before the fastener is damaged. so go easy. 3. if a nut or bolt is broken beyond repair, you can weave a torque bar or secondary nut it? 4. is the bolt or screw likely to shear through corrosion, wear or age? if so, consider the implications of this before proceeding.

5. if the bolt shears, is to stop you from removing the assembly? or will it? in other words, consider deliberately breaking the bolt and replace it – but not if the screw is seized with a cast, unless you plan to have its spark-eroded out (see below). 6. you can tap on the head of the screw or bolt as you unscrew? 7. better still, do have an impact driver? or you can get one? 8. you have a nut splitter do? they are inexpensive and effective tool, but it is not always easy to apply when the nut is in a confined space.


9. if you are working with an allen screw, do you have an allen socket that will allow you to apply torsional strength as you tap / strike at the end of the screw? again, an impact driver would be better. 10. you can get an air tool fastener? or an electric impact driver? often, they will work immediately where ordinary sockets and spanners will get you nowhere. 11. you can get the ingredients to be loosened elsewhere? 12. you want to drill the screw or bolt? 13. consider using an easy out for damaged screws.

The drill to screw a reverse thread. they are not always effective, but is a cheap and useful tool to have in your arsenal. 14. consider using a stud extractor where appropriate. but be careful. a stud often seized scissors. so think about the implications of this. 15. if you get any movement at all, try some more freeing oil before you apply more power. if you’ve tried all of these methods and failed, you can consider grinding off the nut or bolt head with an angle grinder or dremel. and if that fails, you need to talk to a store that specializes in engineering spark erosion.


This leads to an electrical spark the offensive fastener. it is often surprisingly fast and effective. as with everything, the prices vary. but if you are working in an expensive, fragile or rare elements, you may not have many options. above all, never start with a screw or bolt unless and until you have considered all the implications of the problems that you are likely to face. stop. go away. drink tea or coffee. research if you are still unsure. and above all else change your attitude. ultimately, everything is solvable, so do not panic.

Just remind yourself that each fastener is a big problem in itself and should be treated with respect and caution. anyone can take a new nut and bolt. what makes a good mechanic or bad is the attention he gives to fasteners problem.